All Mexicans are familiar with picadillo, which is something like our version of hash but infinitely more versatile. The most elegant kind, a favorite filling or topping for all kinds of chiles, tacos or antojitos, features chopped or ground pork or beef (sometimes shredded cooked meat or chicken) with wonderful Mediterranean-inspired accents like olives, almonds, raisins, cumin, canela, and cloves.

This "poor man's" versions is based on a recipe from the Restorán Caperucita in San Andrés Tuxtla The reason for the name is obvious: the meat is thriftily stretched with diced potato and chayote, while luxurious ingredients like the olives, almonds, and "sweet" spices are left out. The main seasoning comes from everyday fresh herbs that people in the region grow or cheaply buy at market as hierbas de guisar (stewing herbs): oregano, parsley, mint, and cilantro. Some cooks color the dish with achiote paste, an authentic regional touch that I have mixed feelings about because it tends to dull the other flavors. Use or omit it as you prefer. Most picadillos are cooked fairly dry, but picadillo de pobre should remain a little soupy.

Be sure to use best-quality beef without annoying gristly bits, which stand out like sore thumbs in hand-chopped meat.